Survey of Refuges on the GR20


Posted: Sat, Jul 8, 2017, 18:30

The refuges and bergeries at the GR20 are quite different. Mostly they are basic. Nevertheless, some are quite modern with some sanitary comfort, some have nice pitches for camping, others have quite some supplies to buy. Most offer a menu at the evening, that has to be reserved before 5pm, sometimes even earlier.

Its always good to know if the next refuge offers food to buy or if you should rather resuply at the location before. We walked the GR20 from south to north during the last two weeks in June 2017 with our own tent and summarized the conditions at the refuges in a survey. Situation may change and the rating is subjective. Feel free to give comments and we will update the list.

You will also find some other useful information and nice pictures in our blog (in German, translator at the end of the page)


DaLi from Switzerland


Posted: Sat, Jul 8, 2017, 20:41

I like it.

At the Bergerie U Vallone, book a meal when you arrive, but let everyone crowd into the building until it is full. The staff will be stressed - you got that right - but let them know you booked to eat, and they'll tell you to come back later. You then eat with just a few trekkers, at the same time the staff have their own meal, and it's a lot more relaxed.

At Capanelle, the camping is much better at Renosu. I guess you stayed at Fugone, which isn't so good.

At Prati, the grass is nice for camping, but I thought it was too much of a slope.

Other people might like to comment about alternatives after Bassetta, at Matalza and Croci.


Posted: Sun, Jul 9, 2017, 6:38

Very useful to have some to have this information....of course it is impossible for one traveler to have visited all of the buildings offering food and supplies during one trip.
During a second trip in the opposite direction from the first trip I did try some other places offering food etc.
Two that GR20 suggested..... both Renosu and Croci are very good for a camping overnight and excellent for food. Some of the bergeries are well worth for having a lunch or breakfast at and for some supplies.
I have had soup or breakfast at Tighettu and at Mori. Have had food at Bocca di Verdi.
There are some others where I have visited but these are all that I can recall at the moment.



Fanta 65

Posted: Sun, Jul 9, 2017, 6:52

thank you for this very helpful and realistic blog. We enjoyed it. There are a lot of helpful hints for our next trip to corsica. Did you really enjoyed the descent from Orto to Calenzana?



Fanta 65


Posted: Sun, Jul 9, 2017, 8:27

Hi GRRR 20

Thanks for your comments. It was Fugone, I updated the page. And you are right, Prati has very nice grass, but it has a slope. We were lucky to get a flat pitch at the edge.




Posted: Sun, Jul 9, 2017, 8:30

Hi Fanta 65

Thanks for the nice words. The descent from Orto to Calenzana was just an easy walk. Well, we did not really enjoy it, but as it was so hot even early in the morning, it was at least not exhausting. The crowd with the huge backpacks, that came from the opposite direction, would have stated it differently ;-)




Posted: Mon, Jul 17, 2017, 14:25

My experiences from a few weeks ago are pretty much in line with DaLi's apart from;

Calenzana - if you can avoid staying here, do so. No food (served or to buy), cold showers, camping very cramped and invariably on an ants nest. Toilets - bowl but no seat and no toilet paper (standard everywhere). Spar open till 1pm on a Sunday - sells gas canisters incl screw in.

Carozzu - Get here quick if you are camping, hardly any spaces and very cramped.

Vallone - Meal pretty poor and breakfast a joke. Didn't try shower as washed in river.

Vergio - Well stocked shop - fill up here - Lonzu is amazing. Also had basic medical stuff (plasters and Compeed) plus ice creams!

Manganu - Get here early as campsite fills up quick. 'Source' was very slow and there were queues to fill up water bottles. Had a dip in the pool under the foot bridge - better than a shower.

L'Onda - The lasagne (vegetarian) was fantastic, and the working farm was very entertaining! Shop had good stash of supplies.

Vizzavona - Well stocked shop with gas and basic medical supplies as Vergio. Campsite does not take pegs so plan an alternative (owner even tells you this). A return train to Corte is 9 Euros of you need to get to a pharmacy or large supermarket (5 mins walk from Corte station).

Capanelle - camping site at Fugone fills up quickly but there is room on south side of the stream as well.

Col de Verde - They clearly want you to eat in restaurant so minimal food for sale in 'shop'. Camping - pretty good. Toilets - sit down with toilet paper!!! Showers - warm I think.

Usciolu - Shop has to be seen to be believed! Amazing selection - good fill up opportunity.

I'Croci - not bad site - limited food for sale - meals only really - could buy choccy bars etc. Wine was cheap and cheerful. Food was not too bad really and reasonably priced. Sit down toilets and hot showers.

Paliri - My favourite spot - amazing sunrise! I thought the shop here was excellent - got fresh cheese, bread, wine, tinned food and chocolate bars for next day - toilets and showers not so good - shower had its' own 'live in' scorpion - and it was glacial!


Posted: Mon, Jul 17, 2017, 18:10

john928 - you said breakfast at Vallone was a joke. I sat down at a table there and the guardian put a small plate of biscuits in front of me. I ate them before he returned with my coffee. He told me off for eating all the biscuits, because they were supposed to feed four people. I left hungry!


Posted: Mon, Jul 17, 2017, 18:49

Talking about being hungry, as anyone of you figured out how many calories we burn on average during a day on the trail?


Posted: Mon, Jul 17, 2017, 20:06

Hmmm. Vallone was not good for food. Demi pension 35 Euros for 1 night bivouac, evening meal of 1 slice of charcuterie, some pasta with hacked up sheep in it (was nice once you'd picked the shattered bone out of it) and then 3 slices of the saltiest cheese on the planet (inedible). Breakfast comprised of 6 slices of stale baguette plus a small bowl of marmalade and another bowl of instant coffee. You could have some sympathy if they were miles away from civilisation but you could see the 4x4's parked up on the other side of the river.

Cal burn rate. I burn about 2500 - 3000/day doing similar effort back home in Scotland so is probably the same in Corse.


Posted: Tue, Jul 18, 2017, 19:10

Hi John

Many thanks for your detailed additions. They reflect what we have discovered. Thanks also for the info about Calenzana. I've updated the blog with your comments. I also added L'Onda and Vizzavona (forgot to translate it before).

Paliri was our first place and we felt also it as the nicest: Very kind staff, excellent pitches and a marvelous sunrise (see picture on our blog).

Vallone might suffer from the too good criticism in the past, that it is now overrun and can't fulfill the service anymore. I hope this does not happen to the other refuges on the GR20 too.

Cheers, DaLi